Sunday, July 23, 2006

Vultures Everywhere

We decided to start heading back north. We went to a little place for huevos rancheros and bloody marias, and ran into the mother-daughter combo who had pulled us from the sand back in Mulege. They told us if we were heading back north, we had to go out to Bahia de Los Angeles. We told them we would, and we went back to our rooms and packed up and said adios to Cabo San Lucas. We drove around past San Jose Del Cabo and up the peninsula and made Mulege by nightfall. We got a room in the old hotel. The next morning, we drove further back up the peninsula, the tropics turning back into desert and there were vultures in the trees everywhere, and the car started to sputter at times, but there was nothing to do but press on. Back through Santa Rosalia, and inland again past San Ignacio, up though the cactus and canyons over the crazy road. When we came to the turn-off for Bahia de Los Angeles, I was inclined to skip it, but the Insanity Pepper lobbied for it, and I turned down the road. The pavement barely held together and was riddled with thousands of potholes. It is sixty-six miles from the main highway to the town, but it takes over two hours. The desert here no longer seemed wondrous as it had earlier in the trip, and I became more and more aware of rattles and pings in the truck that hadn't been there when we'd started out. At one point we had to move off to the side of the road for a caravan of eight brand new four-wheel drive SUVs with CB antennas and tinted windows. "What you suppose that's all about?" I asked the Insanity Pepper.
"I'm telling you, Zurn, that mother and daughter said this was the place to party. Those were probably a bunch of rich kids leaving town."
"I'm not so sure."
The truck banged along down the road, and I was becoming filled with misgivings. Then we came around a bend over a hill, and the deep blue gulf is down there, and you can tell the wind is blowing even from many miles away because of all the white wrinkles on the water, and the seascape is dotted with islands of all sizes and hues, and I began to get excited about fishing again. It was late afternoon when we dropped down into the "town". It seemed like a peaceful place, but it had some locura in store for us.

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