Thursday, July 13, 2006

Spectacular Fishing Off Land's End

I got up very early the next morning, shook off my hangover, and headed down to the docks, leaving Carlos asleep in his bed and the Insanity Pepper, God knows. I found a guy with a panga willing to take me out. The sun was just coming up as we went around Land's End, with its famous natural arch of stone sticking out of the water, as the last big dorsal fin of rock marks the final tip of the Baja peninsula. It's a sight for which the word 'fantastic' actually applies. Tunnels have been eroded by the ocean through the rock where you can look out from the Gulf of California to the Pacific. We headed west then north out into the ocean, looking for flotsam under which the dorado (also known as dolphin fish in the Atlantic, and mahi mahi in Hawaii) congregate. It wasn't long before whe had hooked up with some twenty pounders. They jump spectacularly trying to throw the hook, and there is no more beautiful fish anywhere in the oceans. It gleams a metallic gold, with turqoise and sapphire, and I don't mean blue, I mean sapphire, because the blue is lustrous as precious gems, and almost like a neon sign the blue changes to emerald depending on the how the sun hits it and the emotion of the fish. Later in the day we trawled for billfish, dragging big squid-looking lures a couple of hundred feet behind the boat. I spotted the back and tail of a small black marlin at the surface, and we circled around the bastard, pulling the lure right over his nose, but he wouldn't take the bait. In the afternoon, the winds came up strong, and we returned to the harbor with five nice dorado, but no bills. Back at the dock, the skipper filleted my dorado, while I sat at the bar and drank some frozen margaritas. I took the dorado to one of the resort restaurants and they put it in the fridge for me. That evening, before Carlos and the Gip and I went out, the kitchen at the resort grilled the dorado for us, and we feasted on mahi mahi steaks with rice and beans and warm buttered tortillas. Man, was it good.

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